Batanes Travel Guide & Notes + Top 10 Moments

It's been over 2 years since my epic Batanes adventure, only getting around to sharing this guide now. I am super sorry!! hehehe. Hope that people will still find this guide to be helpful, relevant and inspiring. If you've booked your Batanes trip and are in the planning process - I hope this guide will be a good reference to refine and help you prioritize your itinerary. If you're still thinking of going to Batanes - I hope this pushes you to actually book because it's one of the most awesome places in the Philippines!

Click here to download The Budget Traveller Batanes Travel Guide & Notes

The Budget Traveller Batanes Travel Guide & Notes I pepared includes the following:

• Summary of things to do in Batanes - in around Basco, Batan Island & Sabtang Island
• List of towns & villages and their main attractions
• Summary of awesome lookout view points
• Places to eat
• Budget and cost of goods/services listing
• Contact directory of restaurants, lodging, tour operators & service providers

Click here to download The Budget Traveller Batanes Travel Guide & Notes

Getting that out of the way, here's a rundown of my Top 10 Batanes Moments

1. Claiming SanTan's Canteen as our hangout spot. We wasted our hours here reading, drinking Kalinga coffee, eating BBQ & devouring the BEST burgers. The book exchange was a big plus too!

2. Discovering one of the best pizzas in my life at Casa Napoli! The owner Xavier worked with Italians in a cruise ship, and wonderfully makes do with scarce ingredients on the island. He also has a secret stock of Lavazza coffee - which he gladly shared with us :-)

Casa Napoli

3. The climb to Mt. Iraya was EPIC. What we thought would be a leisurely climb turned out to be a 9.5 hour test of spirits. It rained hard before we reached the summit. We crawled through mud & instant waterfalls. The wind was punishing at the summit - we were freezing, still drenched in rain. But we got a spectacular glimpse of the whole island on our way down, thankfully.

With my cousin Laida at the summit of Mount Iraya - wet and chilly

4. Discovering the Ivatan villages of Sabtang Island - Savidud, Chavayan, Nakanmuan and Sumnanga. It's like being transported to some fairy tale land with stone houses and breathtaking landscapes.

Old Ivatan lady walking the streets of Sumnanga Village, Sabtang Island

One of the stone houses standing proudly in Chavayan Village, Sabtang Island 

5. The 45minute boat crossing between Ivana and Sabtang was like Laida said, a 4x4 ride through the seas. The Ivatan boats don't have a "katig" because the waves don't have a real wave pattern, they sprout out from all around. It was wild!

On the commuter boat crossing from Sabtang to Ivana

6. The trip to Mahatao, on foot. Fresh from the airport - with no sleep from our New Year celebrations - we ventured on foot to Mahatao. Half-way through the 8km way, we decided to take a trike. Once in Mahatao, we walked to the lighthouse... it turned out to be another 3km. Waaaaah! The locals think we're funny.

7. Biking to Valugan bay, With joints and muscles still reeling from the prior day's abuse from the Iraya climb. We had to walk some parts, and I had to push Laida for "bwelo" at some point. But it was fun, and the Valugan Boulder Beach was a spectacular sight to behold.

Valugan Boulder Beach

8. SEAIR canceling our flight - two times, and forcing us to extend 4 days. Good thing they covered our lodging and food - we moved from Ivatan Lodge to Batanes Seaside Resort (hot water! a proper breakfast! cable tv!). But I never ever had my blood boiling as much in my life - SEAIR handled things very very poorly, they were frustrating, I just felt helpless.... I don't want to think about it anymore.

At the Basco Airport, on the phone with SEAir officials as we trying to secure a flight home

9. Waking up on our 2nd to the last day to find the most beautiful rainbow I've ever seen! It was so clear from end to end, rising from the middle of the sea and ending with the Basco lighthouse at its foot. It was actually a double rainbow - but the 2nd one not so clear in the photo.

Beautiful rainbow seen from the rooftop of Batanes Seaside Resort

 
10. Swimming on our last day, the moment we saw the sun come out. It was quick but fun - for the sake of taking underwater photos! hahaha. The water was cold and very clear, the current was strong though. Scary.

Click here to download The Budget Traveller Batanes Travel Guide & Notes

Pawikan (Sea Turtle) Conservation Tour

All species of pawikan (sea turtle) are considered endangered, and a huge responsibility for conservation rests on our shoulders since our shores are a favorite nesting ground. The amazing thing about sea turtles is that females always go back to lay eggs in the same beach where they were born - they know exactly where it is 25years later!

The Pawikan Conservation Center located in Morong, Bataan is run by locals who work purely as volunteers - and they actually used to be poachers. Realizing the need for conservation, they organized themselves into an association and they have been running the center for 12 years now. Every single night they patrol the shore, move eggs to the protected area and release the baby turtles. They've released over 52,000 hatchlings so far! With an estimate of only 1% of hatchlings making it into adulthood, they know that every single egg will make a difference. 

I hope my turtle comes swimming back to the shores of Morong after 25 years to lay her own batch of 100 turtle eggs!! :-) 

We also had time for a sidetrip to the Dambana ng Kagitingan (Shrine of Valor) up in Mount Samat, Pilar Bataan. This serves as a memorial for the brave American and Filipino soldiers in the Battle of Marlon Bataan, survivors of whom were later led on the the Bataan Death March. The shrine is a moving reminder of the horrors of war and the gallantry of people who fought in it. 

I joined this awesome tour organized by Route +63 Sustainable Travels Inc. Check their website for other upcoming trips! :-) www.route63travels.com

Entrance to the Center. They have several dorm rooms and private rooms available for overnight stays, or one can opt to pitch a tent in their camping grounds. Not to worry - clean public showers are available.

 Chairperson of the center giving a very educational talk about sea turtles - their habitat, mating habits, conservation issues, and a history of the volunteer work that they've been doing here.

The hatchling area, where nests uncovered from the beach are moved for protection. Each nest can contain 100-200 eggs, and will take almost 2 months for full incubation. Turtles dig their way up and out of the sand once they hatch. 

We were lucky to witness hatchlings digging their way out of the sand and into the world! They're still covered in sand, as one can see. Look at their opal-like eyes... kinda creepy. Hehehe 

This is our group under Route +63 Sustainable Travels Inc.! As part of the package, they took care of the transportation from Manila t Balanga, Bataan via bus, transfers to Morong and back, 4 meals (lunch, dinner, breakfast and lunch on Day 2), accommodation at the center, and the sidetrip to Dambana ng Kagitingan.

My sea turtle! We woke up early the 2nd day - 6:00am to be exact - to take part in releasing the hatchlings into the sea. We watched them scamer on the sand and find their way into the water, with the waves finally eating them up. Pretty cool too when they start swimming with nothing but their tiny heads jutting out of the water

The Pawikan Consevation Center's beachfront during sunset, with kids playing around.

View of the Pawikan Conservation Center from the beach

VIDEO: Batanes, Philippines Adventure

So when my friends ask what I did in Batanes.... I just stare back for a few moments, and slowly blurt out with escalating intensity - "I went to BATANES!!"

Unlike other banner destinations thriving on the throngs of tour group travelers, cookie-cutter itineraries and themed attractions - a visit to Batanes is about experiencing a land not pretending to be anything else but what it has naturally grown to be. The awesome landscape, truly the most helpful and gentle people in the country, functionally beautiful architecture, wild boat rides and endlessly crashing seascapes - this seems like the best way to get away from the familiarity of daily life without leaving the country. Can't wait to go back!

Enjoy this short video of our trip!

Top 5 Ways to Avoid Delays when Flying SEAIR to Batanes

During my recent trip to Batanes, I experienced first-hand the perils of flying to a place with notoriously unpredictable weather, fluctuating passenger traffic and a single air carrier acting like it has everyone at its mercy. Bleh! My experience with SEAIR has really been horrible, their customer service and concern for passengers is non-existent, probably because they know passengers have no other choice. It's actually good that they fly to Basco - it's a public service for the local citizens and for tourists - but please, get your act together! At least give your paying passengers the service they deserve and live up to your SEAIR CARES statement.

ANYWAY, I don't want to delve into that. Let's move forward! Hahaha! I had my flight delayed twice, and a total of 4 days. The locals say the record so far is 2weeks stranded in the island, so I still had it good. For the good of the traveling public, I decided to compile this list of practical tips from my personal experience that will help you around possible flight delays and other similar problems. I hope you will find this helpful.



1. PEAK SEASON IS THE TIME TO GO - this is a cliche, but really the most practical thing to do because there are apparently 2 primary reasons why flights get canceled or delayed: (1) Bad Weather, and (2) Not Enough Passengers. Best time to go when weather is good and more predictable is March - July, according to the locals. The second reason is what people whisper about as the secret reason. Of course when I confronted SEAIR they said this is not true. Flying during peak season means most of the inbound and outbound flights are fully booked, so it will be a safe bet for most passengers.

2. PICK THE FIRST FLIGHT - seasonally, SEAIR adds more flights to generate additional  passengers. But most of the travel agencies who book for them push their passengers to the earlier flight or the fixed daily schedule. Related to what I said in the previous item, a flight that has more passengers will have a smaller chance of being canceled. I think the seasonal flights that they add have a higher risk of being canceled - because they open a new flight, book only half the seats... well that's my theory. What we experienced personally was that our group was split into 2 flights back to Manila. The first group flew on sked, we on the 2nd trip had to stay an extra 4days after it was canceled.


3. VALIDATE WIND CONDITIONS - what I found out is that SEAIR planes only have the capability to fly in wind conditions less then 26 knots. Anything more than that, means that a flight can be delayed or canceled altogether. Visit the website www.windfinder.com and search for Basco wind conditions. They have a 1week forecast, which seems accurate. One time, the BCTA lady said that the wind was going to be over 30knots in 3 days. True enough on that day, the flight was canceled due to strong winds. Check our winds conditions in Tuguegarao too, since the plane flies through there. If it's more than 26knots, there'sa big chance it will be delayed or canceled.


4. CHECK FLIGHT STATUS IN ADVANCE - apparently SEAIR changes schedules and moves flights around, but they're not too proactive in informing their passengers about it. What happend in our case was that we were informed our flight back to Manila was canceled only 2 days before the actual flight. With some information from the travel agency we were talking to, we found out that they actually canceled the flight as early as 2weeks before. The travel agency of course informed their passengers about the change, so they were able to rebook people accordingly. Since we purchased online, no one from SEAIR took the initiative to inform us until it was too late. So to be sure, check every now and then leading up to your flight to see if there are any changes.

5. WHEN CANCELED, REBOOK ASAP - if and when your flights gets canceled, SEAIR will probably say one of two things: (1) There will be an additional flight on XX date, we are moving all passengers there, or (2) We are trying to get an additional flight, we will keep you posted. Hmmm, do you notice the glaring difference? Hehe. If you hear Number 1 - that's a good sign. But if their statement sounds like Number 2 - chances are it won't happen. I personally heard that so many times and it never materialized. Take matters in your own hands, call the hotline, look for the next earliest flight and have your ticket rebooked. Don't wait for them to do this for you, because seats might run out.

My last piece of advise, make sure you GET TRAVEL INSURANCE because you will never really know what will happen. This is just P250 per head when you buy the ticket through SEAIR. You can get coverage of P1,000 per day because of flight delays, on top of other benefits like accident and medical insurance. This is a valuable enough reason to protect you from any mishaps.

I also got the following numbers from the BCTA office of some people from SEIAR you can bug in case of problems. Remember that BCTA is just their ground crew and logistics handler in Basco, so they really can't do a lot in case of problems like this. Better to call SEAIR directly:

Patrick Tan - VP for Commercial Affairs (09197432552)
Leo Gimena - Executive Assistant to the VP (09178547480)

Good luck on your travels!!

Port Barton, Palawan Philippines

The moment I got off the jeep in Port Barton, things started to take a slow turn all around. Must be the way things are, in this small beach town locked between mountains and the sea. This, where the 21st century world is separated by 21km / 60minutes & 100pesos, where electricity is a luxury open only from 6pm-12mn, where nature's awesome presence greets you everywhere you turn your gaze. This is Port Baron, where your system clocks down, without a choice thankfully - perfect conditions to relax, recharge and steep in the island life.




How I Got There

• From the Roxas transport terminal, I took the jeep (it had a big "Lion King" sign)
• From Roxas, it left the terminal at 11am (no fixed sked I heard, but around this time)
• The fee was P100 per way
• The trip was a little over an hour, through a mostly unpaved & beaten road

Where I Stayed

• Elsa's Beach Resort - a little south of center, large grounds dotted with hammocks under tall tree shades, & a wide elevated resto with sweeping sea views
• Paid off peak rate of P500/night for a double bed cottage with own Toilet & Bath
• The cottage had a small porch, a pretty mosquito net swooping down from the ceiling, and the cobblestone walls in the room added a nice flare
• They have cheaper rooms with common toilet & bath, just P300/night
• Elsa's price point more expensive than the average, but well worth the extra cost

Where I Wined & Dined

• Jambalaya: I had the fish fillet steak with jambalaya, and it was fresh, thick & juicy. They serve imported brewed coffee, have ice-cold beer all day (no electricity is not an excuse!), and maintain a book exchange. The place is oozing with character - with the funny and unashamed signs, and the owners who make sure you will want to come back. Spent P280
• Summer Homes: I stopped over for coffee, where they have a generous serving of an entire 500ml press. If you want your coffee strong, ask them not to fill up with water. Spent P90
• Bamboo House: I had breakfast of thick pancakes, served with fresh honey, a side order of bacon strips and brewed coffee. They also have a souvenir shop with shirts, bags and local decor. Spent about P140 for breakfast
• Ysobelle's (now known as Deep Gold resort): had dinner with friends from El Nido, where we ordered some pizza, pasta, fish and a siding of aubergines. I was surprised with the variety of dishes in their menu, they must have a well stocked kitchen. Spent less than P300 each.

Top Things to Do

• I personally didn't do anything much, just lazed around in the beach, had coffee, read my book, walked around. I just wanted time to wind down. Port Barton is perfect for this :-p
• Pamuayan Falls: we tried to look for it without a guide, and it was a total failure! It's supposed to be an hour's hike from the beach, but the path is difficult to navigate with lack of signs and multiple forks along the way. You must get a guide!
• Island Hopping & Snorkeling: it's possible to do this, but operations not as efficient as in El Nido. You have to contract with one of the local fishermen, and they can arrange a tour for you.

How I Got Away

• I took the 8am jeep back to Roxas for the same price of P100
• From Roxas, it's easy to get a bus/jeep/shuttle whether you are heading back to Puerto, South to Sabang, or up north to El Nido or Taytay.
• There is a jeep from Port Barton to Puerto Princesa, it leaves 9am

El Nido, Palawan Philippines

El Nido is one of those fabled dream destinations, and contrary to popular perception it can be a more affordable beach destination than your usual trips to Puerto Galera or Boracay. Just be prepared to rough it up a bit with the long and bumpy roads, lack of 24-hour electricity and absence of modern day conveniences like ATMs and fast-food outlets. All the better actually if you ask me, since these are the exact ingredients for a one-of-a-kind experience with one of the most breathtaking places in the country.







How to get to El Nido

The convenient, fast and expensive option is to take a direct flight from Manila through Island Transvoyager Inc. Guests staying in the upscale El Nido Resorts usually take this flight.

The affordable and relatively east method is to take to land trip from Puerto Princesa City (from Manila, you can fly Cebu Pacific, Philippine Airlines or AirphilExpress or Zest Air). Just head over to the New San Jose Terminal about 5km from the city center. Once in the terminal you have 2 main options:

1. Van: Fort Wally Shuttle Service

• Vans leave daily, starting at 6am-7am. They keep going, as long as there are passengers.
• Travel time is between 5-6 hours
• Cost is P700 per way, with a discount if you book your return trip as well
• The vans are new, fast with good air-conditioning. Expect cramped conditions though
• Call Evelyn at 0917-2762875

2. Bus: Win Eulen Joy Liner

• There are 3 trips daily starting at 6am and leaving every hour thereafter
• Travel time is between 7-8 hours
• Cost is P350 per way
• These are not air-conditioned buses
• Call 0926-6998700

Places to Stay in El Nido

Countless lodges, transient inns, hostels and cottages line the main roads of Hama and Serena streets. It's pretty easy to walk around town to check a few places first hand before picking your preferred place to stay. Unless you have a specific place or room in mind that comes highly recommended, a reservation is not necessary. Here are some options:

1. Rosanna's Cottages - stayed at Room #5 for three nights in September, 2010. It's located at the east end, on the more quiet side of the beach. The room has a private toilet & bath, a double and a single bed, with a roomy balcony opening up to a perfect view of the sea with Cadlao Island looming over it. All windows and doors have screens to keep the mosquitoes away.

• Price: P900 / night for room #5 (low season rate). They have other rooms that go for P600/night
• Phone: 0920-6054631 / 0929-7063647 (Lonely Planet & Jens Peters have the wrong numbers)
• Email: rosannascottages_elnido@yahoo.com
• Website: http://rosannas.multiply.com
  
  
  
  
  
  
  

2. Chizlyk Cottages - another beachfront property on Hama St. right beside Rosanna's

• Price: P600/night with private toilet & bath
• Phone: 0929-5408321 / 0919-8799333
• Email: ana.bacsa@yahoo.com

3. Og's Pensione - with a popular restaurant, smack in the middle of the beach. One of the places with air-conditioning in their rooms

• Price: P1,200 for air-conditioned rooms, P800 for fan room with private toilet & bath, P500 for a fan room with common toilet & bath
• Mobile: 0920-4040223 / 0916-7070393
• Email: ogspensionne@yahoo.com

Places to Eat in El Nido
1. El Nido Art Cafe - wide selection of Western, Asian and Filipino cuisine. Extensive wine collection and they also have a book exchange. This is one of the landmarks of El Nido, with the boutique/shopping are downstairs and the restaurant occupying the second floor. A live band performs as well, playing reggae, alternative and Filipino favorites. Main courses start at P180.

2. Balay Tubay - located on Hama St. just behind Chizlyk Cottages - transplanted here from the house's original location in Sibaltan, where it was said to be a secret meeting place for guerillas during WWII. Interiors are pretty cool, featuring pieces from artist friends. They serve excellent Nido Soup (a must try in EL Nido of course!), and their home-made bread is one of the best I've had in my life. A live band plays on some night s as well. Main courses start at P180.

3. Og's Pensionne Restaurant - one of the more affordable beach front options, with their complete budget meals (comes with soup, 2 main courses and a fruit platter). They have tables on the beach set out at night, and they have happy hour 5pm - 7pm where you can get beer for P50 only.

4. Pukka - this is a reggae bar, where the servers imbibe the attitude with their dreadlocks and slow swaying to Bob Marley, Soja and Sublime. Sanwiches and shakes are good, and they also sell some customized souvenirs and fashion accessories like sling bags, necklaces, and scarves.

5. Sea Slugs - one of the more popular dining places in EL Nido, with the wooden interiors, live band playing some slow music and at night tables stretch all out to the sea (you can dine with the waves touching your toes, during jam-packed nights). It's a pretty setup, with the candles lighting up the tables on the beach at night.


Things to Do in El Nido

1. Island Hopping - the island hopping tours in EL Nido are very organized and have been grouped together for convenience - there are standard offers named Tour A, Tour B, Tour C and Tour D. Whoever you talk to - the boatman, the cottage manager, the tour operators - they all refer to the same stops per tour. Each tour has its own highlight and main attraction, lasts the whole day from 9AM - 5PM and usually includes a picnic lunch. You also have to pay for the exo-tourism fee which is P200/pax valid for 10days - this is your entrance pass to all island hopping stops.

• Tour A (P500/pax) - Big and Small Lagoon, Miniloc Island, Simisu Island, 7 commandos beach and a lot of snorkeling!
• Tour B (P600/pax) - Caves and beaches, Snake Island, Lagen Island, Malapacao island
• Tour C (P700/pax) - Secret Beach, Hidden Beach, more snorkeling, Matinloc Shrine, Tapuitan Island and Helicopter Island.
• There is a Tour D, I'm not entirely sure of the itinerary and cost. Just ask your guides :-)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  

2. Kayaking - you can rent a kayak for P700 for half a day from the Artcafe. You can just kayak and explore the nearby island, and find your quiet secret spot in the Bacuit Archipelago.

3. Diving - Sea Dog Divers is run by Barrie, a very helpful and enthusiastic Englishman who has been living in EL Nido the past 8 years. They offer everything from introductory courses for first-time divers to open water diving trips for advanced divers.

• Phone: 0916-7776917
• Email: barringtonwhitely@gmail.com
• Website: http://www.seadogdivingpalawan.com

There are a host of other things to do in El Nido - you can rent a motorbike to go around and explore the surrounding towns/beaches, there are treks and cliff climbing tours available, you can have yourself dropped-off in one os the island-beaches for quiet time to read a book, do yoga or just sleep on the beach. Just go around town and ask the very friendly and helpful townsfolk.


Useful Links on El Nido:
1. El Nido Boutique and Artcafe - considered as the main tourist center for many, they offer tour packages, currency exchange, credit card withdrawals, hotel recommendations, and everything else you need to know about El Nido.

2. Lonely Planet Palawan Guide - instead of lugging around your thick and heavy Lonely Planet Philippines guide which I'm sure takes up a lot of prime real estate in your backpack, I suggest just buying a pdf copy of the Palawan chapter and having it printed back-to-back, 2 pages per sheet. Or better yet, save it on your smartphone, iPod or e-PDF reader. Now that's a compact guide. It's just about USD5.00

3. El Nido Tourism Office - for the latest news about travelling to El Nido. They also have a directory of accommodations. restaurants, and guids to other activities