Meditative Mornings: Cafe Loka, Siargao

My mornings in Siargao consisted of rising from bed while it was still dark, sauntering down the beach-side trail to Cloud 9 that was lined with coconut trees and modest bungalows, admiring the sunrise as it wrestled with the clouds and slowly bathed the island with its glorious rays, heading back to Ocean 101 for a light continental breakfast, and winding down in Cafe Loka for a proper cup of coffee.

Cafe Loka, Siargao Cloud 9

Cafe Loka opened at 8:00 AM, and I would be hanging around the porch a few minutes before then while watching the staff arrange tables & chairs and prep for official opening. Different island characters would be walking by this time of day, spotters checking out the waves, surfers with their boards heading out, local vendors peddling suman rice cakes, kids in uniform preparing for class, and a lot more. One morning a little girl in a neat dress - I guess she was about 5 - ambled down the path lugging a cash box and handed it to the staff. With her task completed, she then demanded a cookie from the guy, the little hoodlum with hungry smiling eyes. I would later see she was the daughter of the cafe's proprietor.

Cafe Loka, Siargao Cloud 9

Cafe Loka, Siargao Cloud 9

I relished my quiet meditative mornings at Cafe Loka. By my table, coffee cup an arm's reach away, I barely had to look up for this splendid view to mesmerize me. When immersed in nature, in all its expanse and majesty - the sea, mountains, waves, winding rivers, clouds, blue skies and starry nights -  they all have the same fundamental effect on me. It clears my mind and my point of view, strips away all the man-made constraints clouding my head. It reminds me of how small a speck I am in this world, more so my problems - hence it shouldn't stop me from doing what I must do. I feel enabled, capable, inspired, powerful, driven.

Cafe Loka, Siargao Cloud 9

Cafe Loka, Siargao Cloud 9

An excerpt from my journal entry dated November 10, 2014:

"Walked to Cloud 9 and found Cafe Loka. Must say it's quite sensational to have a good cup of coffee early morning in a windy beach. The cool wind brushing my legs and sending a tingling chill to my spine, hot cup of coffee in my hands, the strong bitter aroma, the forceful pounding of waves in the distance, the incessant woosh of the moving current - keeps you in a trance. Until the electric hummmm of the coffee grinder wakes you up."

Here are a few more photos of  Cafe Loka at dusk, taken from the beach and the boardwalk. It is quite the glowing invitation to come over and have a cup of coffee (or a shake, or a sandwich, or a salad, or a slice of home-baked cake...) and just watch the world keep turning.

Cafe Loka, Siargao Cloud 9

Cafe Loka, Siargao Cloud 9

Cafe Loka, Siargao Cloud 9

Downing Drinks: Cool Spot Bar, Siargao

"Had a couple too many beers last night at this bar across 101 run by a Korean castaway. Pretty cool warm place with this bar counter decked in strip lights, a ref covered in skulls, and Bon Jovi playing in the background."

- Journal entry, November 11, 2014

Cool Spot Bar, Cloud 9 Siargao - Pale Pilsen beer with free Popcorn! 

There was this bar I always passed by when going through the roadside gate of Ocean 101, and it piqued my interest because it was always aglow with warm yellow lights and electric hues emanating from a huge iMac sitting on the counter. It was also always empty, and I made a mental note to try hanging out there at least once.

The night I had a couple too many beers happened after hanging out at dusk on the Cloud 9 platform, and I decided to walk back to Ocean 101 via the road instead of the shoreline pathway. It rained softly but steadily the whole way back, which I didn't mind until it suddenly started to pummel down hard. My brisk walk turned into a sprint, and as I passed by its gate the warm and dry bar called out to me and I couldn't resist. I barged in the bar (which was really the decked out garage of the house), running as if some crazy dog was chasing me. There was one Spaniard on a rattan hammock watching TV, and no other customers. I sat by the bar, ordered a beer and the bartender served it with a bowl of popcorn - complimentary munchies for every order. I tried to conceal a smile. Perfect.

Cool Spot Bar, Cloud 9 Siargao - surf board rental, pool table, dining area, movie screenings at night

Thus started our daily pre-dinner and post-dinner drinks at the bar across the road, away from the busy and overly-friendly atmosphere of Ocean 101's dining area. We met Skol, the Korean castaway who runs the place, he opened it just a few months back after moving to Siargao from Boracay, where he was a tour guide for over 10 years. The music was always good, Anna was surprised when they played an obscure Australian band that she's seen perform in a friend's bar in Sydney. The food, while limited to barchow, was just right - I loved the Sashimi, they served it together with a unusual side dish - I forget what it was but I remember how surprised I was that it went so well together and that it wasn't a more popular pairing. I think it was a pickled vegetable or a fruit or some sauce. Hmmmm. What I also admired was that dinner time Skol would always stop working to eat dinner with his entire staff together in one table - they'd have rice, share the same ulam, and they'd just talk and share stories over dinner.

Cool Spot Bar, Cloud 9 Siargao - funky car decked out in lights

Cool Spot Bar, Cloud 9 Siargao - the bar where cocktails are served double shot all the time haha

Detail of the ref design / sticker - SKULLS

There would only be a few other guests, which gave us a chance to chat properly without having to raise our voices, and we would engage Skol is some random banter occasionally. My last night in Siargao a couple of guys came in while we were having our pre-dinner beers, and when we got back after dinner they were stinking drunk after downing half a lapad of Tanduay. They were so drunk they kept falling all over the place, one would help the other and they both crash and the chairs end up in disarray. When the bartenders finally manage to help them up, they prep to depart, but not before facing each other and doing a pep talk in a foreign language I couldn't identify. I imagined that they were telling each other in their madly inebriated state that "we can do this, we can walk back home together. focus." The next morning as we walked to Cloud 9 to catch the sunrise, we found the 2 boys shattered limp lying on the beach. They never got to their rooms, they succumbed to the power of Tanduay and expired on the beach. But hey, I wouldn't mind waking up with the perfect sunrise greeting me.

Oh and when I got home, I asked Anna who stayed behind to inquire if the bar had a name - yes, it was called Cool Spot.

The drunk boys we found on the beach the next morning

Port Barton, Palawan Philippines

The moment I got off the jeep in Port Barton, things started to take a slow turn all around. Must be the way things are, in this small beach town locked between mountains and the sea. This, where the 21st century world is separated by 21km / 60minutes & 100pesos, where electricity is a luxury open only from 6pm-12mn, where nature's awesome presence greets you everywhere you turn your gaze. This is Port Baron, where your system clocks down, without a choice thankfully - perfect conditions to relax, recharge and steep in the island life.




How I Got There

• From the Roxas transport terminal, I took the jeep (it had a big "Lion King" sign)
• From Roxas, it left the terminal at 11am (no fixed sked I heard, but around this time)
• The fee was P100 per way
• The trip was a little over an hour, through a mostly unpaved & beaten road

Where I Stayed

• Elsa's Beach Resort - a little south of center, large grounds dotted with hammocks under tall tree shades, & a wide elevated resto with sweeping sea views
• Paid off peak rate of P500/night for a double bed cottage with own Toilet & Bath
• The cottage had a small porch, a pretty mosquito net swooping down from the ceiling, and the cobblestone walls in the room added a nice flare
• They have cheaper rooms with common toilet & bath, just P300/night
• Elsa's price point more expensive than the average, but well worth the extra cost

Where I Wined & Dined

• Jambalaya: I had the fish fillet steak with jambalaya, and it was fresh, thick & juicy. They serve imported brewed coffee, have ice-cold beer all day (no electricity is not an excuse!), and maintain a book exchange. The place is oozing with character - with the funny and unashamed signs, and the owners who make sure you will want to come back. Spent P280
• Summer Homes: I stopped over for coffee, where they have a generous serving of an entire 500ml press. If you want your coffee strong, ask them not to fill up with water. Spent P90
• Bamboo House: I had breakfast of thick pancakes, served with fresh honey, a side order of bacon strips and brewed coffee. They also have a souvenir shop with shirts, bags and local decor. Spent about P140 for breakfast
• Ysobelle's (now known as Deep Gold resort): had dinner with friends from El Nido, where we ordered some pizza, pasta, fish and a siding of aubergines. I was surprised with the variety of dishes in their menu, they must have a well stocked kitchen. Spent less than P300 each.

Top Things to Do

• I personally didn't do anything much, just lazed around in the beach, had coffee, read my book, walked around. I just wanted time to wind down. Port Barton is perfect for this :-p
• Pamuayan Falls: we tried to look for it without a guide, and it was a total failure! It's supposed to be an hour's hike from the beach, but the path is difficult to navigate with lack of signs and multiple forks along the way. You must get a guide!
• Island Hopping & Snorkeling: it's possible to do this, but operations not as efficient as in El Nido. You have to contract with one of the local fishermen, and they can arrange a tour for you.

How I Got Away

• I took the 8am jeep back to Roxas for the same price of P100
• From Roxas, it's easy to get a bus/jeep/shuttle whether you are heading back to Puerto, South to Sabang, or up north to El Nido or Taytay.
• There is a jeep from Port Barton to Puerto Princesa, it leaves 9am

El Nido, Palawan Philippines

El Nido is one of those fabled dream destinations, and contrary to popular perception it can be a more affordable beach destination than your usual trips to Puerto Galera or Boracay. Just be prepared to rough it up a bit with the long and bumpy roads, lack of 24-hour electricity and absence of modern day conveniences like ATMs and fast-food outlets. All the better actually if you ask me, since these are the exact ingredients for a one-of-a-kind experience with one of the most breathtaking places in the country.







How to get to El Nido

The convenient, fast and expensive option is to take a direct flight from Manila through Island Transvoyager Inc. Guests staying in the upscale El Nido Resorts usually take this flight.

The affordable and relatively east method is to take to land trip from Puerto Princesa City (from Manila, you can fly Cebu Pacific, Philippine Airlines or AirphilExpress or Zest Air). Just head over to the New San Jose Terminal about 5km from the city center. Once in the terminal you have 2 main options:

1. Van: Fort Wally Shuttle Service

• Vans leave daily, starting at 6am-7am. They keep going, as long as there are passengers.
• Travel time is between 5-6 hours
• Cost is P700 per way, with a discount if you book your return trip as well
• The vans are new, fast with good air-conditioning. Expect cramped conditions though
• Call Evelyn at 0917-2762875

2. Bus: Win Eulen Joy Liner

• There are 3 trips daily starting at 6am and leaving every hour thereafter
• Travel time is between 7-8 hours
• Cost is P350 per way
• These are not air-conditioned buses
• Call 0926-6998700

Places to Stay in El Nido

Countless lodges, transient inns, hostels and cottages line the main roads of Hama and Serena streets. It's pretty easy to walk around town to check a few places first hand before picking your preferred place to stay. Unless you have a specific place or room in mind that comes highly recommended, a reservation is not necessary. Here are some options:

1. Rosanna's Cottages - stayed at Room #5 for three nights in September, 2010. It's located at the east end, on the more quiet side of the beach. The room has a private toilet & bath, a double and a single bed, with a roomy balcony opening up to a perfect view of the sea with Cadlao Island looming over it. All windows and doors have screens to keep the mosquitoes away.

• Price: P900 / night for room #5 (low season rate). They have other rooms that go for P600/night
• Phone: 0920-6054631 / 0929-7063647 (Lonely Planet & Jens Peters have the wrong numbers)
• Email: rosannascottages_elnido@yahoo.com
• Website: http://rosannas.multiply.com
  
  
  
  
  
  
  

2. Chizlyk Cottages - another beachfront property on Hama St. right beside Rosanna's

• Price: P600/night with private toilet & bath
• Phone: 0929-5408321 / 0919-8799333
• Email: ana.bacsa@yahoo.com

3. Og's Pensione - with a popular restaurant, smack in the middle of the beach. One of the places with air-conditioning in their rooms

• Price: P1,200 for air-conditioned rooms, P800 for fan room with private toilet & bath, P500 for a fan room with common toilet & bath
• Mobile: 0920-4040223 / 0916-7070393
• Email: ogspensionne@yahoo.com

Places to Eat in El Nido
1. El Nido Art Cafe - wide selection of Western, Asian and Filipino cuisine. Extensive wine collection and they also have a book exchange. This is one of the landmarks of El Nido, with the boutique/shopping are downstairs and the restaurant occupying the second floor. A live band performs as well, playing reggae, alternative and Filipino favorites. Main courses start at P180.

2. Balay Tubay - located on Hama St. just behind Chizlyk Cottages - transplanted here from the house's original location in Sibaltan, where it was said to be a secret meeting place for guerillas during WWII. Interiors are pretty cool, featuring pieces from artist friends. They serve excellent Nido Soup (a must try in EL Nido of course!), and their home-made bread is one of the best I've had in my life. A live band plays on some night s as well. Main courses start at P180.

3. Og's Pensionne Restaurant - one of the more affordable beach front options, with their complete budget meals (comes with soup, 2 main courses and a fruit platter). They have tables on the beach set out at night, and they have happy hour 5pm - 7pm where you can get beer for P50 only.

4. Pukka - this is a reggae bar, where the servers imbibe the attitude with their dreadlocks and slow swaying to Bob Marley, Soja and Sublime. Sanwiches and shakes are good, and they also sell some customized souvenirs and fashion accessories like sling bags, necklaces, and scarves.

5. Sea Slugs - one of the more popular dining places in EL Nido, with the wooden interiors, live band playing some slow music and at night tables stretch all out to the sea (you can dine with the waves touching your toes, during jam-packed nights). It's a pretty setup, with the candles lighting up the tables on the beach at night.


Things to Do in El Nido

1. Island Hopping - the island hopping tours in EL Nido are very organized and have been grouped together for convenience - there are standard offers named Tour A, Tour B, Tour C and Tour D. Whoever you talk to - the boatman, the cottage manager, the tour operators - they all refer to the same stops per tour. Each tour has its own highlight and main attraction, lasts the whole day from 9AM - 5PM and usually includes a picnic lunch. You also have to pay for the exo-tourism fee which is P200/pax valid for 10days - this is your entrance pass to all island hopping stops.

• Tour A (P500/pax) - Big and Small Lagoon, Miniloc Island, Simisu Island, 7 commandos beach and a lot of snorkeling!
• Tour B (P600/pax) - Caves and beaches, Snake Island, Lagen Island, Malapacao island
• Tour C (P700/pax) - Secret Beach, Hidden Beach, more snorkeling, Matinloc Shrine, Tapuitan Island and Helicopter Island.
• There is a Tour D, I'm not entirely sure of the itinerary and cost. Just ask your guides :-)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  

2. Kayaking - you can rent a kayak for P700 for half a day from the Artcafe. You can just kayak and explore the nearby island, and find your quiet secret spot in the Bacuit Archipelago.

3. Diving - Sea Dog Divers is run by Barrie, a very helpful and enthusiastic Englishman who has been living in EL Nido the past 8 years. They offer everything from introductory courses for first-time divers to open water diving trips for advanced divers.

• Phone: 0916-7776917
• Email: barringtonwhitely@gmail.com
• Website: http://www.seadogdivingpalawan.com

There are a host of other things to do in El Nido - you can rent a motorbike to go around and explore the surrounding towns/beaches, there are treks and cliff climbing tours available, you can have yourself dropped-off in one os the island-beaches for quiet time to read a book, do yoga or just sleep on the beach. Just go around town and ask the very friendly and helpful townsfolk.


Useful Links on El Nido:
1. El Nido Boutique and Artcafe - considered as the main tourist center for many, they offer tour packages, currency exchange, credit card withdrawals, hotel recommendations, and everything else you need to know about El Nido.

2. Lonely Planet Palawan Guide - instead of lugging around your thick and heavy Lonely Planet Philippines guide which I'm sure takes up a lot of prime real estate in your backpack, I suggest just buying a pdf copy of the Palawan chapter and having it printed back-to-back, 2 pages per sheet. Or better yet, save it on your smartphone, iPod or e-PDF reader. Now that's a compact guide. It's just about USD5.00

3. El Nido Tourism Office - for the latest news about travelling to El Nido. They also have a directory of accommodations. restaurants, and guids to other activities