El Nido, Palawan Philippines

El Nido is one of those fabled dream destinations, and contrary to popular perception it can be a more affordable beach destination than your usual trips to Puerto Galera or Boracay. Just be prepared to rough it up a bit with the long and bumpy roads, lack of 24-hour electricity and absence of modern day conveniences like ATMs and fast-food outlets. All the better actually if you ask me, since these are the exact ingredients for a one-of-a-kind experience with one of the most breathtaking places in the country.







How to get to El Nido

The convenient, fast and expensive option is to take a direct flight from Manila through Island Transvoyager Inc. Guests staying in the upscale El Nido Resorts usually take this flight.

The affordable and relatively east method is to take to land trip from Puerto Princesa City (from Manila, you can fly Cebu Pacific, Philippine Airlines or AirphilExpress or Zest Air). Just head over to the New San Jose Terminal about 5km from the city center. Once in the terminal you have 2 main options:

1. Van: Fort Wally Shuttle Service

• Vans leave daily, starting at 6am-7am. They keep going, as long as there are passengers.
• Travel time is between 5-6 hours
• Cost is P700 per way, with a discount if you book your return trip as well
• The vans are new, fast with good air-conditioning. Expect cramped conditions though
• Call Evelyn at 0917-2762875

2. Bus: Win Eulen Joy Liner

• There are 3 trips daily starting at 6am and leaving every hour thereafter
• Travel time is between 7-8 hours
• Cost is P350 per way
• These are not air-conditioned buses
• Call 0926-6998700

Places to Stay in El Nido

Countless lodges, transient inns, hostels and cottages line the main roads of Hama and Serena streets. It's pretty easy to walk around town to check a few places first hand before picking your preferred place to stay. Unless you have a specific place or room in mind that comes highly recommended, a reservation is not necessary. Here are some options:

1. Rosanna's Cottages - stayed at Room #5 for three nights in September, 2010. It's located at the east end, on the more quiet side of the beach. The room has a private toilet & bath, a double and a single bed, with a roomy balcony opening up to a perfect view of the sea with Cadlao Island looming over it. All windows and doors have screens to keep the mosquitoes away.

• Price: P900 / night for room #5 (low season rate). They have other rooms that go for P600/night
• Phone: 0920-6054631 / 0929-7063647 (Lonely Planet & Jens Peters have the wrong numbers)
• Email: rosannascottages_elnido@yahoo.com
• Website: http://rosannas.multiply.com
  
  
  
  
  
  
  

2. Chizlyk Cottages - another beachfront property on Hama St. right beside Rosanna's

• Price: P600/night with private toilet & bath
• Phone: 0929-5408321 / 0919-8799333
• Email: ana.bacsa@yahoo.com

3. Og's Pensione - with a popular restaurant, smack in the middle of the beach. One of the places with air-conditioning in their rooms

• Price: P1,200 for air-conditioned rooms, P800 for fan room with private toilet & bath, P500 for a fan room with common toilet & bath
• Mobile: 0920-4040223 / 0916-7070393
• Email: ogspensionne@yahoo.com

Places to Eat in El Nido
1. El Nido Art Cafe - wide selection of Western, Asian and Filipino cuisine. Extensive wine collection and they also have a book exchange. This is one of the landmarks of El Nido, with the boutique/shopping are downstairs and the restaurant occupying the second floor. A live band performs as well, playing reggae, alternative and Filipino favorites. Main courses start at P180.

2. Balay Tubay - located on Hama St. just behind Chizlyk Cottages - transplanted here from the house's original location in Sibaltan, where it was said to be a secret meeting place for guerillas during WWII. Interiors are pretty cool, featuring pieces from artist friends. They serve excellent Nido Soup (a must try in EL Nido of course!), and their home-made bread is one of the best I've had in my life. A live band plays on some night s as well. Main courses start at P180.

3. Og's Pensionne Restaurant - one of the more affordable beach front options, with their complete budget meals (comes with soup, 2 main courses and a fruit platter). They have tables on the beach set out at night, and they have happy hour 5pm - 7pm where you can get beer for P50 only.

4. Pukka - this is a reggae bar, where the servers imbibe the attitude with their dreadlocks and slow swaying to Bob Marley, Soja and Sublime. Sanwiches and shakes are good, and they also sell some customized souvenirs and fashion accessories like sling bags, necklaces, and scarves.

5. Sea Slugs - one of the more popular dining places in EL Nido, with the wooden interiors, live band playing some slow music and at night tables stretch all out to the sea (you can dine with the waves touching your toes, during jam-packed nights). It's a pretty setup, with the candles lighting up the tables on the beach at night.


Things to Do in El Nido

1. Island Hopping - the island hopping tours in EL Nido are very organized and have been grouped together for convenience - there are standard offers named Tour A, Tour B, Tour C and Tour D. Whoever you talk to - the boatman, the cottage manager, the tour operators - they all refer to the same stops per tour. Each tour has its own highlight and main attraction, lasts the whole day from 9AM - 5PM and usually includes a picnic lunch. You also have to pay for the exo-tourism fee which is P200/pax valid for 10days - this is your entrance pass to all island hopping stops.

• Tour A (P500/pax) - Big and Small Lagoon, Miniloc Island, Simisu Island, 7 commandos beach and a lot of snorkeling!
• Tour B (P600/pax) - Caves and beaches, Snake Island, Lagen Island, Malapacao island
• Tour C (P700/pax) - Secret Beach, Hidden Beach, more snorkeling, Matinloc Shrine, Tapuitan Island and Helicopter Island.
• There is a Tour D, I'm not entirely sure of the itinerary and cost. Just ask your guides :-)
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  

2. Kayaking - you can rent a kayak for P700 for half a day from the Artcafe. You can just kayak and explore the nearby island, and find your quiet secret spot in the Bacuit Archipelago.

3. Diving - Sea Dog Divers is run by Barrie, a very helpful and enthusiastic Englishman who has been living in EL Nido the past 8 years. They offer everything from introductory courses for first-time divers to open water diving trips for advanced divers.

• Phone: 0916-7776917
• Email: barringtonwhitely@gmail.com
• Website: http://www.seadogdivingpalawan.com

There are a host of other things to do in El Nido - you can rent a motorbike to go around and explore the surrounding towns/beaches, there are treks and cliff climbing tours available, you can have yourself dropped-off in one os the island-beaches for quiet time to read a book, do yoga or just sleep on the beach. Just go around town and ask the very friendly and helpful townsfolk.


Useful Links on El Nido:
1. El Nido Boutique and Artcafe - considered as the main tourist center for many, they offer tour packages, currency exchange, credit card withdrawals, hotel recommendations, and everything else you need to know about El Nido.

2. Lonely Planet Palawan Guide - instead of lugging around your thick and heavy Lonely Planet Philippines guide which I'm sure takes up a lot of prime real estate in your backpack, I suggest just buying a pdf copy of the Palawan chapter and having it printed back-to-back, 2 pages per sheet. Or better yet, save it on your smartphone, iPod or e-PDF reader. Now that's a compact guide. It's just about USD5.00

3. El Nido Tourism Office - for the latest news about travelling to El Nido. They also have a directory of accommodations. restaurants, and guids to other activities