Downing Drinks: Cool Spot Bar, Siargao

"Had a couple too many beers last night at this bar across 101 run by a Korean castaway. Pretty cool warm place with this bar counter decked in strip lights, a ref covered in skulls, and Bon Jovi playing in the background."

- Journal entry, November 11, 2014

Cool Spot Bar, Cloud 9 Siargao - Pale Pilsen beer with free Popcorn! 

There was this bar I always passed by when going through the roadside gate of Ocean 101, and it piqued my interest because it was always aglow with warm yellow lights and electric hues emanating from a huge iMac sitting on the counter. It was also always empty, and I made a mental note to try hanging out there at least once.

The night I had a couple too many beers happened after hanging out at dusk on the Cloud 9 platform, and I decided to walk back to Ocean 101 via the road instead of the shoreline pathway. It rained softly but steadily the whole way back, which I didn't mind until it suddenly started to pummel down hard. My brisk walk turned into a sprint, and as I passed by its gate the warm and dry bar called out to me and I couldn't resist. I barged in the bar (which was really the decked out garage of the house), running as if some crazy dog was chasing me. There was one Spaniard on a rattan hammock watching TV, and no other customers. I sat by the bar, ordered a beer and the bartender served it with a bowl of popcorn - complimentary munchies for every order. I tried to conceal a smile. Perfect.

Cool Spot Bar, Cloud 9 Siargao - surf board rental, pool table, dining area, movie screenings at night

Thus started our daily pre-dinner and post-dinner drinks at the bar across the road, away from the busy and overly-friendly atmosphere of Ocean 101's dining area. We met Skol, the Korean castaway who runs the place, he opened it just a few months back after moving to Siargao from Boracay, where he was a tour guide for over 10 years. The music was always good, Anna was surprised when they played an obscure Australian band that she's seen perform in a friend's bar in Sydney. The food, while limited to barchow, was just right - I loved the Sashimi, they served it together with a unusual side dish - I forget what it was but I remember how surprised I was that it went so well together and that it wasn't a more popular pairing. I think it was a pickled vegetable or a fruit or some sauce. Hmmmm. What I also admired was that dinner time Skol would always stop working to eat dinner with his entire staff together in one table - they'd have rice, share the same ulam, and they'd just talk and share stories over dinner.

Cool Spot Bar, Cloud 9 Siargao - funky car decked out in lights

Cool Spot Bar, Cloud 9 Siargao - the bar where cocktails are served double shot all the time haha

Detail of the ref design / sticker - SKULLS

There would only be a few other guests, which gave us a chance to chat properly without having to raise our voices, and we would engage Skol is some random banter occasionally. My last night in Siargao a couple of guys came in while we were having our pre-dinner beers, and when we got back after dinner they were stinking drunk after downing half a lapad of Tanduay. They were so drunk they kept falling all over the place, one would help the other and they both crash and the chairs end up in disarray. When the bartenders finally manage to help them up, they prep to depart, but not before facing each other and doing a pep talk in a foreign language I couldn't identify. I imagined that they were telling each other in their madly inebriated state that "we can do this, we can walk back home together. focus." The next morning as we walked to Cloud 9 to catch the sunrise, we found the 2 boys shattered limp lying on the beach. They never got to their rooms, they succumbed to the power of Tanduay and expired on the beach. But hey, I wouldn't mind waking up with the perfect sunrise greeting me.

Oh and when I got home, I asked Anna who stayed behind to inquire if the bar had a name - yes, it was called Cool Spot.

The drunk boys we found on the beach the next morning

Beyond the Photo: Gloria the Lato Vendor

People were throwing sharp glances at me, as I languidly walked down the main road from lofty Fort Culion. I was looking for a place to have lunch, and regretted heading out in the punishing noontime sun with a daypack and 2 cameras strapped around me. Along the way, I was shooting random street scenes: leper-colony era structures now in decay, kids playing with their makeshift toys of ruined bicycle tires & used food cans, homemakers tending to their sari-sari stores and food stands. The locals projected this canned smile at me, as if telling me to take their photo - and when I'd oblige and point my camera they would break into wild laughter and shake their heads as if it were a silly thing to ask for.

As I was walking along I heard a loud and elongated cry from behind me, like a jungle call that drowned out all other noise on the street. I looked around and saw this lady at the bend of the road, bucket in one hand and a carrying staff hoisted on her shoulders with green bundles hanging from it. She was steadily marching down like a soldier in a parade while chanting her jungle cry. As she came into better view I realized she was peddling "lato" - that delicious seaweed salad that exploded into the taste of the sea in your mouth. She stopped a short distance away, looked at me intently and exclaimed in a commanding voice: "kunan mo ako ng litrato."

She told me her name - Gloria Bereng, and that she was Tagbanua. Gloria had a regal posture, standing erectly never mind the heavy load on her shoulders. She was dark-skinned and her hair was brown, baked from working under the harsh sun most of the day for sure. What caught my eye though was a deep & very pronounced canal on her temple, right between the eyebrows.  The rest of her forehead looked like it was collapsing, being sucked in by it. This sculpted what seemed like a permanent scowl on her face. I asked her to give a big smile for the photo, and all that she could muster looked like a squint against the afternoon sun, rather than a smile. Despite that, I was pretty sure she was elated to have her photo taken.

Gloria Bereng, Tagbanua Lato vedor from Culion, Palawan

I promised to have the photos printed for her and sent to Hotel Maya via postal mail, where she can pick it up after a month. I was able to send them after 2 weeks, and I hope she got her copies.

Beyond the Photo: Beach Bumming in Bagasbas

The ultimate beach bumming experience is when you have an absolutely nothing to do except waste the day on the shore under the summer sun - down a few drinks, read a book you've been dying to finish, pick a few sticks of bbq street food, and dive into the wild waves that playfully spit you back out to the shore. Relieved that we survived our one-week romp through the Bicol Region, we savored the downtime in Bagasbas - the last stop in our trip with our crazy itinerary behind us.

Bagasbas Beach. Daet, Camarines Norte - April 2011.

This was our BUSY schedule: We left Cubao in Manila Palm Sunday. Holy Monday we swam with Whale Sharks in Donsol, visited the ruins of Cagsawa, tried to get a glimpse of Mt. Mayon  (she skillfully hid behind a thick cloud) and spent the night in Camsur Watersports Complex after miserably failing at wakeboarding. Holy Tuesday we hied off to logistically elusive Caramoan but finally arrived before sunset despite the transportation challenges. Holy Wednesday we went on an early morning island hopping tour of the Caramoan Islands and had an amazing breakfast on a secluded white-sand island, we headed to Naga right after and caught onward bus to Daet. My sister Marija joined the trip at this point, our shuttle van picked her up in Pili. Holy Thursday we braved the waves on a rickety boat for 2hours on the way to jaw-droppingly-pretty Calaguas Islands where we spent the whole day with JM's clan - which meant we were free to act like kids in a family beach picnic. Which brings us to...

Good Friday - with all to-dos masterfully crossed out of our ambitious checklist, we could finally wind down and take things slow. We allowed ourselves to sleep in late, have a prolonged and lazy breakfast, and play  around with the kids. We headed to Bagasbas to bask in the morning sun, and it was simply magical feeling to have nothing to do looming over you. Finally we could exhale deeply, relax our clenched muscles and just let time run its course without worrying. We could have tried surfing, but we were simply too lazy even for that, and just opted to skimboard. Walked around town after that, went back home and slept some more. Ahhhhhh, a perfect way to end a great adventure. 

Pawikan (Sea Turtle) Conservation Tour

All species of pawikan (sea turtle) are considered endangered, and a huge responsibility for conservation rests on our shoulders since our shores are a favorite nesting ground. The amazing thing about sea turtles is that females always go back to lay eggs in the same beach where they were born - they know exactly where it is 25years later!

The Pawikan Conservation Center located in Morong, Bataan is run by locals who work purely as volunteers - and they actually used to be poachers. Realizing the need for conservation, they organized themselves into an association and they have been running the center for 12 years now. Every single night they patrol the shore, move eggs to the protected area and release the baby turtles. They've released over 52,000 hatchlings so far! With an estimate of only 1% of hatchlings making it into adulthood, they know that every single egg will make a difference. 

I hope my turtle comes swimming back to the shores of Morong after 25 years to lay her own batch of 100 turtle eggs!! :-) 

We also had time for a sidetrip to the Dambana ng Kagitingan (Shrine of Valor) up in Mount Samat, Pilar Bataan. This serves as a memorial for the brave American and Filipino soldiers in the Battle of Marlon Bataan, survivors of whom were later led on the the Bataan Death March. The shrine is a moving reminder of the horrors of war and the gallantry of people who fought in it. 

I joined this awesome tour organized by Route +63 Sustainable Travels Inc. Check their website for other upcoming trips! :-) www.route63travels.com

Entrance to the Center. They have several dorm rooms and private rooms available for overnight stays, or one can opt to pitch a tent in their camping grounds. Not to worry - clean public showers are available.

 Chairperson of the center giving a very educational talk about sea turtles - their habitat, mating habits, conservation issues, and a history of the volunteer work that they've been doing here.

The hatchling area, where nests uncovered from the beach are moved for protection. Each nest can contain 100-200 eggs, and will take almost 2 months for full incubation. Turtles dig their way up and out of the sand once they hatch. 

We were lucky to witness hatchlings digging their way out of the sand and into the world! They're still covered in sand, as one can see. Look at their opal-like eyes... kinda creepy. Hehehe 

This is our group under Route +63 Sustainable Travels Inc.! As part of the package, they took care of the transportation from Manila t Balanga, Bataan via bus, transfers to Morong and back, 4 meals (lunch, dinner, breakfast and lunch on Day 2), accommodation at the center, and the sidetrip to Dambana ng Kagitingan.

My sea turtle! We woke up early the 2nd day - 6:00am to be exact - to take part in releasing the hatchlings into the sea. We watched them scamer on the sand and find their way into the water, with the waves finally eating them up. Pretty cool too when they start swimming with nothing but their tiny heads jutting out of the water

The Pawikan Consevation Center's beachfront during sunset, with kids playing around.

View of the Pawikan Conservation Center from the beach

My Entry! Natgeo Traveler Photo Contest

Sunset Drama Over Port Barton

The clashing energy of the sun's last rays slowly being engulfed by night clouds - this is the drama that transpires daily over Port Barton's last moments of light.

With the setting sun out of view as it drowns over the dark horizon, the clouds and the sky take center stage as it puts on this show of rich colors and textures dancing elegantly and transforming every second.

This was taken with a film camera, the old-fashioned way. Untouched by any modern-day photo-editing technology.

Check ount my National Geographic Traveler Photo Contest entry here!

Baler, Aurora Philippines

Baler is famous as the shooting location of Apocalypse Now, as the birthplace of the Philippines’ 2nd President Manuel Quezon, as the last standing garrison where the Spanish surrendered and ended their rule of over 300 years… but nowadays it’s more famous for one thing - the best waves this side of the country!





How I Got There

• Genesis Bus travels from Manila to Baler daily, trips from 3AM to 7AM
• The Cubao terminal is located in the northbound side, right after crossing Aurora Blvd.
• One-way fee was P395.00 for the standard airconditioned bus
• They also have a roomier deluxe coach, with only 28 seats on the bus!
• We took a special midnight ride, and it only took us 5.5 hours to get to Baler
• Call (632) 7090803 / (632) 4211425 or visit http://www.genesistransport.com.ph/
  

Where I Stayed

• Bahia de Baler I, located on Sabang Beach – the main beach and surfing spot in Baler. A tricycle ride from the transport terminal to the beach is about 5mins, and costs P12/pax for a group of 3
• The Bahia grounds is split into 2 – the beachfront area has cottages, a camping area and a function hall, and across the street you will find the neatly lined rooms with porches fronting a small field
• A twin room was P1,700/night and extra bed costs P300
• It’s the most expensive accommodation in Sabang beach, but still reasonable. You get an air conditioned room, private toilet & bath, hot water, cable TV and free breakfast
• Other good places to stay: Bay’s Inn, Bahia de Baler II, Aliya Surf Resort, Little Surfer Girl

Where I Wined & Dined

• Bay’s Inn: we had breakfast here when we arrived – best location on the beach, in my opinion. Had a good serving of pancakes with bacon, and strong brewed coffee. They also serve your regular Filipino dishes, and a good selection of shakes. Get’s packed lunch and dinner time, get table early. Spent about P150 for breakfast.
• Bahia Bar & Grill: we had generous serving of sinigang and lechon kawali. They also have excellent fruit shakes. Live band plays on certain days as well. Spent about P270 pesos for lunch
• Gerry Shan’s: is the most famous dinner place located in the town proper, a short walk away from the Museum. They have a huge selection of Filipino, Chinese, and American dishes, they also serve pizza and pasta. Spent about P200 for dinner.

Top Things to Do

• Surfing! Board rentals typically cost P200/hour and getting an instructor to help you paddle and push you will cost another P150/hour. Getting an instructor is a MUST for beginners. An hour will get you tired, but won’t be enough. 2 hours per session will be just right.
• There are 3 main surf shops: Aliya Surf Camp, Charlie Does and Maddox. They all charge the same, but ask for a discount from where you are staying, they usually have special rates
• Museo de Baler: located in town, get to see some relics from the town’s history, props from the movie “Baler,” and personal effects of the late Manuel Quezon – like his recently restored presidential Cadillac
• Ermita Hill: take a tricycle and climb a few steps to get a sweeping view of the Bay of Baler
• Balete Park: home to what is supposedly the largest Banyan Tree in the whole of Asia – it’s estimated to be 60meters high and 300 years old.
• Waterfalls: Diguisit and Ditumabo falls are just a short tricycle ride and hike away from town, and will make for a refreshing day trip

How I Got Away

• Took the same Genesis Bus back, trips start at 4:30AM and leave every hour thereafter
• There are only2 buses that leave from Baler directly, the other buses come from Casiguran – so there is no guarantee on availability of seats
• Fee is the same P395.oo per way
• From the 5.5 hours getting to Baler, it took us 10hours to get back to Manila! It was because of the slow traffic in some towns, but mostly because of the numerous stopovers – we must have taken about 8 stops and some were almost 30minutes long
• Another option is to take a van shuttle to Cabanatuan, and from there it will be easy to get an onward ride to Manila with the many bus companies available

Port Barton, Palawan Philippines

The moment I got off the jeep in Port Barton, things started to take a slow turn all around. Must be the way things are, in this small beach town locked between mountains and the sea. This, where the 21st century world is separated by 21km / 60minutes & 100pesos, where electricity is a luxury open only from 6pm-12mn, where nature's awesome presence greets you everywhere you turn your gaze. This is Port Baron, where your system clocks down, without a choice thankfully - perfect conditions to relax, recharge and steep in the island life.




How I Got There

• From the Roxas transport terminal, I took the jeep (it had a big "Lion King" sign)
• From Roxas, it left the terminal at 11am (no fixed sked I heard, but around this time)
• The fee was P100 per way
• The trip was a little over an hour, through a mostly unpaved & beaten road

Where I Stayed

• Elsa's Beach Resort - a little south of center, large grounds dotted with hammocks under tall tree shades, & a wide elevated resto with sweeping sea views
• Paid off peak rate of P500/night for a double bed cottage with own Toilet & Bath
• The cottage had a small porch, a pretty mosquito net swooping down from the ceiling, and the cobblestone walls in the room added a nice flare
• They have cheaper rooms with common toilet & bath, just P300/night
• Elsa's price point more expensive than the average, but well worth the extra cost

Where I Wined & Dined

• Jambalaya: I had the fish fillet steak with jambalaya, and it was fresh, thick & juicy. They serve imported brewed coffee, have ice-cold beer all day (no electricity is not an excuse!), and maintain a book exchange. The place is oozing with character - with the funny and unashamed signs, and the owners who make sure you will want to come back. Spent P280
• Summer Homes: I stopped over for coffee, where they have a generous serving of an entire 500ml press. If you want your coffee strong, ask them not to fill up with water. Spent P90
• Bamboo House: I had breakfast of thick pancakes, served with fresh honey, a side order of bacon strips and brewed coffee. They also have a souvenir shop with shirts, bags and local decor. Spent about P140 for breakfast
• Ysobelle's (now known as Deep Gold resort): had dinner with friends from El Nido, where we ordered some pizza, pasta, fish and a siding of aubergines. I was surprised with the variety of dishes in their menu, they must have a well stocked kitchen. Spent less than P300 each.

Top Things to Do

• I personally didn't do anything much, just lazed around in the beach, had coffee, read my book, walked around. I just wanted time to wind down. Port Barton is perfect for this :-p
• Pamuayan Falls: we tried to look for it without a guide, and it was a total failure! It's supposed to be an hour's hike from the beach, but the path is difficult to navigate with lack of signs and multiple forks along the way. You must get a guide!
• Island Hopping & Snorkeling: it's possible to do this, but operations not as efficient as in El Nido. You have to contract with one of the local fishermen, and they can arrange a tour for you.

How I Got Away

• I took the 8am jeep back to Roxas for the same price of P100
• From Roxas, it's easy to get a bus/jeep/shuttle whether you are heading back to Puerto, South to Sabang, or up north to El Nido or Taytay.
• There is a jeep from Port Barton to Puerto Princesa, it leaves 9am